CapeConversation

Pilgrimage, conflagration and the re-negotiation of inner and outer spaces in the Tankwa Karoo

Traditionally, “The Wilderness” occupies a hallowed place in the Judeo-Christian belief system, so a journey to the “Afrika Burns” festival with 4 Christian companions was both a radically progressive experience and a return to my roots.  Most readers do not need reminding of how Moses led his people out of bondage into the wilderness, and how only then were they able to reach the promised land of Milk and Honey.  The story of how Jesus went into the wilderness to be tempted by Satan before his final returning as a sacrifice for his people is also widely known.  Why are these encounters with a barren and inhospitable environment given such a high place in spiritual mythology?  We cannot overlook the symbolism that these spiritual icons chose adversity and bleakness to demonstrate their faith in a divine provider.

It is interesting that the organizers of “Afrika Burns” a severely secular, tribal and arguably decadent festival of progressive and interactive cultural production chose the middle of the longest stretch of road without a town in the whole of the Republic of South Africa for their festival.  It was viewed by some as a “blank canvass”, which suggested to me that some people failed to observe how species such as Doublebanded Sandgrouse, Karoo Chat, Karoo Longbilled Lark, at least one species of Elephant Shrew and Scrub Hare were all forced to move over whilst the dominant species was blasting the landscape with spectacular sights, relentless super-woofing sounds and soaring sculptural forms, whose main theme was fire- symbol of transformation, metamorphosis, sacrifice, transience, trance-dancing and perhaps also transformation.  The proposal to adhere to the ethic of leaving no trace was remarkably well received and executed, and the land owner is far more likely to support a repeat visit by the same crowd than most people who have ever had the goodness to offer up their space for similar shindigs.

Perhaps the least transient of these was the art-work called “Triple Bi-pass”- three giant chimneys which bent towards each other to form a well heated and arched central core- a welcome heater in the middle of chilly nights.  The act of throwing logs, which were plentifully supplied, into the tops of the chimneys, was both exciting and potentially dangerous.  The fact that this invitation to anarchic activities did not lead to any injury was a clear token of the potential to live beyond the bounds of the conventional in a modern world stifled by crime and moral decay or by their omnipresent inverse- the shackles of law and order.

Several effigies were ruthlessly burnt- including “The Temple”, “The Pit” and “The “Burning Man”.  I saw “The Temple”- which was a 30m. circle of wooden packing crates surrounding a somewhat forlorn and doomed totem- go up in flames.  “The Pit” was a seething do-nut of burning coals with an island in the middle- just close enough to lure the odd lunatic to jump into the ring of fire.  “The Burning Man” which was not yet completely raised when I left and was presumably completely razed soon thereafter.  The wilderness was an ideal place for this carnival of conflagrations.  If this pagan pyromania took place anywhere less bleak, especially considering the wind, there is little doubt that these wild activities would have roared off into the landscape in an uncontrollable wave of destruction.  A bunch of balmy blacksmiths created super-heat through a bicycle–driven fan, and beat their way towards a giant metal sculpture of leaves and branches.  In perfect harmony with the theme the days were scorching and the nights icy, the wind howled and dust devils twirled along like giant dervishes on a mission to sand-blast all-comers, and most particularly their equipment.

There were a host of other sculptures adorned this dusty playground.  A giant scorpion was constructed from car tyres and at night neon pulsed through its spinal chord.  A towering tumble-weed with 3m. branches to which blue lights were attached on the end- appearing at night like a skeletal space ship.  The wild multimedia mixes of DJs, dance, hoola-hoping, fire-juggling and a vast array of  projected visual images under the full moon, blended seamlessly as if rehearsed.  In short the outer space was out of this world.

The big movement of the inner space came from inspired ethic of radical gifting.  The level of talent, giving and generosity created a space of which, in our usual urban prisons we are completely bereft.  Going back to where everyone spoke, everyone played, everyone cared and everyone gave, was deeply shaming to our modern lives.  I was gifted with a radical abundance of food, artworks, designs for alternative structures and showering water aplenty.  I gave away cards of artwork and five handmade sets of juggling sticks.

I really experienced that the harder you give, the more you get.  I was given so much that I can’t describe.  Kindness, friendliness and fun were the outer fruits.  One inner fruit was an awareness that our society could really be much, much better, if we could only return to trust and get beyond fear.  Another inner fruit was the awareness that no-one has nothing, and no-one has everything, but the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.  I ate many fruits down to their core and found that the wilderness is not a barren wasteland.

In the naked dust of Tankwa Karoo lies one seed that I left behind, no matter how hard I tried to clean up.  It is really harsh out there, but I think this seed might grow up miraculously, regardless of what it might have to face.  It is the seed of desire, a desire to return again next year to the same incinerator.  For where “Afrika Burns” I am a “Burning Man”, a Flaming Fool, but a Fool who is drawn to the Black Hole of the Wilderness.  To “the wise” the wilderness has nothing.  But to “the Fool” the wilderness has everything.  Radical wilderness, the place of the Fool and the “Burning Man” is a place where we will not want for anything. 

Afrika Burns Synchroblog participants:

• Photographs on Signs of Life : Rob Mills and Mike de Freitas
• John W Morehead on Moreheads Musings : Afrika Burns Synchroblog: Burning Man Regional Burn
• Tim Victor on Tim Victors Musings : Afrika Burns
• Ant Paton on CapeConversation : Wondering about the wilderness, by Ant Paton
• Rob Mills : Signs of Life
• Emerging Africa : Afterburn: A Karoo Flowering  
• Mike de Freitas on CapeConversation: Afrika Burns, a Christian response, by Mike de Freitas
• Nic Paton : a baptism of joyful fire : Afrika Burns synchroblog
• RuZl on Liquid Light : a desert underground
• Roger Saner on Future Church : An oasis of silence

Other writings of note:

• From the mouth of the Man himself : What is Burning Man? 
• John W Morehead: Burn, Baby, Burn, Christendom Inferno: Burning Man and the Festive Immolation of Christendom Culture and Modernity
• John W Morehead: Apocalyptic Man Ablaze: The Hope of Burning Man’s Effigy Fulfilled in the Risen Holy Fool
• Overtone Music blog : Afrika Burns: Backwater Art Back In Fashion